Theme Recipe: Schmatlz And Griebens

It sort of seems a little disrespectful to start posting recipes on such a somber occasion, I was a little unsure how to approach it.  Then it hit me, the basics of what the two major groups of people who were part of the Nazi extermination programs, Jews and Romani, would be a good place to start.  All population have staples that they fall back on when things get really lean--then in better times, these same recipes have fondness attached to them, they are the essentials that a meal shouldn't be without.  First up, the good old fashioned Jewish staple of Schmaltz which also produces Griebens, also called "Jewish Candy."  What are they?  Rendered chicken fat and the resulting fried fat pieces.  Simple.

Food writer Barbara Bloch gives a loving description of what these are and how to prepare them all at the same time in her Little Jewish Cookbook.  She says it much better than I ever could.

The special flavor of Schmatlz (rendered chicken fat) is as intrinsic to good Jewish cooking as olive oil is to Italian cooking.  The main difference is that olive oil is considered healthy while chicken fat decidedly is not.  The use of chicken fat presents exactly the same dilemma as the use of bacon fat--it isn't good for you, but it certainly adds a special flavor to food. (Why should it be that "if it tastes good it's bad for you?)....You can buy it as some supermarkets, but don't.  Make it at home and save money.  When ever you clean a chicken, remove the excess fat and place it in a container in the freezer.  When you have about a pound of fat, render it as follows:

Place chicken fat in deep, heavy saucepan.  If desired, cut some fatty chicken skin into small pieces and add to the pan.  Cover with water, bring to a boil, cover pan, reduce heat, and cook until most of the water has evaporated.  Uncover the pan and cook until nothing remains in pan but rendered chicken fat and small pieces of skin.  Add diced onion and cook, uncovered, until skin (called griebens) is crisp and onion is lightly browned.  Strain fat and store it in a container in the freezer or refrigerator.  Serve griebens and onion on matzo or thick slices or bread.

In very lean times the solidified schmaltz was also spread on whatever bread or bread like stuff could be found.  In better times, it was, and is, used in cooking like oil or butter.