MANHATTAN CLAM CHOWDER
Chowders in their earliest form have both a Native American and European ancestry. There are all sorts of stories about how this dish wasn't invented in Manhattan, but came from southern New England, because some heretic cooks decided to substitute tomatoes for the milk or cream. Truthfully, there is a chowder that is still made in Rhode Island with BOTH tomatoes and milk, so it does seem that the further south one gets from the heart of New England, that is, closer to Manhattan, the more "tomatoey" the concoction becomes; so I think the name is perfectly appropriate. This particular version comes from The Little New York Cookbook by Barbara Bloch, great illustrations by Susan David. I've modified the instruction a bit.
1/4 lb. salt pork
1 onion, chopped
1 small green bell pepper, chopped
3 carrots
2 dozen littleneck or cherrystone clams
1 to 2 bottles clam juice
4 large tomatoes
1/2 tsp. dried thyme
1/2 to 1 tsp. sea salt
3 potatoes, peeled and cubed (place in bowl with cold water to keep white)
Favorite hot sauce to taste (pass around at the table, also)
Black pepper, fresh (optional)
1. Scrub the clams well and steam until just open over 2 1/2 cups water. When cool, reserve the steaming broth and chopped the clams and set aside.
2. Chop the salt pork over medium heat in large soup until golden, immediately add the onion and the green pepper and cook 5 minutes.
3. Strain the steaming broth into the onion mixture, then add in the clam juice, you need at least 5 cups of liquid.
4. Peel the tomatoes (blanch in hot water), then dice. Add this to the saucepan with the seasonings. Simmer down boiling for 10 minutes. Add the carrots, cook another 10 minutes. Add the potatoes, cook another 10 minutes. Add the clams and season with hot sauce and black pepper if using. Check the vegetables for tenderness. Serve with hot sauce on side. It looks nice with a dusting of parsley with crackers on the side.
Above is a serving variation, with the clams added to the hot soup to steam open in the tomato broth.
With other variations, other vegetables, like corn kernels may be added. Or different colors of tomatoes, even unripe green tomatoes in the mix makes a great tart addition.
If you live in areas where fresh clams are hard to come by, frozen or even canned clams work just fine.
In the fall, as a harvest soup, serve in a slightly roasted pumpkin.
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